A simple rule of thumb when choosing Greek: Look to the salad. Every member of the Hellenic tribe knows that this essential entree — yes, entree — should be served with thick portions of peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, feta, capers, and olives, or it isn't worth eating. (Lettuce? An insult.) Alas, American taste buds rule in the end. But if the traditional salad remains an option, then it stands to reason that the rest of the menu has been properly vetted by someone's fastidious yaya. Christos, the spacious Eat Street taverna with two more locations in Minnetonka and St. Paul, is uncompromising on this point and in at least two other respects: The stuffed vine leaves, or koupepia, come served on a bed of pilaf with spoonfuls of sweet lemon sauce, and the spinach pie, or spanakopita, is more pronounced than the ones consumed each morning as sacrament by the fisherman of Paros. Carnivores should begin with the absurdly hearty moussaka, which melts at the touch of a fork, then clear the rest of the weekend to work down the list of skewered, broiled, and baked delights. Oh, and did we mention they serve saganaki?