It's hard to argue with a restaurant that offers the Rocky Road Bomb, in which a hard shell of chocolate reveals a core of liquid chocolate goodness beneath, and other sweet delights. Owner and chef Erick Harcey has proven that the North Side can embrace a classy eatery that packs plenty of flavor and innovation into each dish. That comes through in every phase, including the decadent desserts that can end a meal or provide a topper to the evening. That vibe has only increased in recent months with the opening of the adjacent Victory 44 Coffee Bar and Provisions, which expands the offerings to include pastries and more. Like the rest of the menu, the desserts mix expert preparation with easy-to-manage portions and delightful presentation, such as a remix on a cheesecake likes ants on a log (a peanut butter cheesecake with celery sorbet and raisins, not quite like Mom used to make). Even something as straightforward as bread pudding comes with distinct twist. In this case, the tasty, spongy, sweet bread is topped with fresh-cut apples, sprinkles of bacon dust, and a dollop of bacon ice cream. And really, why resist the thrill of seeing your chef-server bring out a plate of cakes and then use a blowtorch at your table to melt a thin layer of chocolate? Dessert as performance art always works for us.