Meatloaf is one of those childhood foods that warrants a second taste with an adult palate — when it is prepared well, that is. The Sample Room, a bar and restaurant operating under the same name as the saloon opened originally in the location's Thies Hotel in 1893, has incorporated your grandma's favorite dish into its diverse rotation of charcuterie, cheese, meat, seafood, pasta, and veggie plates. The Sample Room is a marriage of all things Northeast, mixing blue-collar staples like potpie and Grain Belt with a hip ambiance and a menu with all the cheeses you can't pronounce. The meatloaf is a perfect example: It's as blue-collar as mashed potatoes, but in combining bison, pork, and beef, it has a complexity that's just a little more appealing than meatloaf's usual "complexity" (read: "Okay, what the hell did Grandma put in the stuff this time?"). If you're lucky, you'll show up when the menu rotation features a warm meatloaf sandwich — it'll soothe your soul. But the meatloaf is just fine on its own as a selection from Sample Room's meat plates, with a slathering of tasty smoked tomato ketchup brushed liberally on top. Now if only the Sample Room could offer the same redemption to your grandma's liver and onions.