We all have our favorite suburban dim sum spots, tucked into drab and far-flung strip malls, or housed in a freeway-side former Chili's. And while there's something to be said for an authentic ambiance, would it be too much to ask to pop back a few shrimp shumai in a restaurant that was a little more chic and convenient? Thom Pham's new Wondrous Azian Kitchen is as pretty as it is proximate, with a Fifth and Hennepin address that lends the urban ring of a big-city Chinatown. While the restaurant's weekend dim sum menu might not be as extensive as some—they don't serve chicken feet, but you weren't going to eat 'em anyway, were you?—it covers all the basics and offers a few innovations, such as the chiu chow dumplings stuffed with pork, scallions, and peanuts. The fried foods are the most favored: The wrinkled skin of bean curd is a chewy, salty pleasure; taro buns are a sweet, starchy mash. But be careful with the dessert-like sesame balls—hollow shells of chewy rice flour covered in crunchy seeds and filled with a nugget of creamy lotus bean paste. Eat too many and you'll have to roll yourself out of the place.