Its name is Italian. Its owner is of Chinese heritage. Its itamae, or sushi chef, is a pierced blond guy named Mike—from Hibbing. But don't let this fool you. Ask for "omakase" (chef's choice), and soon some of the most original sushi in town starts arriving: a Latin-flavored fish cocktail; Hawaiian walu fish, which melts in the mouth like seafood sour cream; and more exotic creatures such as kawahagi (a distant cousin of the blowfish) and barracuda, served by few sushi joints in town—and most of it sustainable. Or, for that matter, come for the area's only Naked Sushi nights, when patrons dine off a model's be-thonged body. Gimmicky? Sure. Enjoyable? As a week in Tokyo with Bill Murray. Because Giapponese understands that today's sushi-making is less a tradition than an art form, open to interpretation, whether you're having seared tuna on rice or mackerel on breasts.