BEST CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICAN RESTAURANT
El Rincón Salvadoreño
Pupusas are, incomprehensibly, an unsung feature of Central American cuisine, placing somewhere along the lines of a distant fourth—neck-and-neck with tamales—on a list top-heavy with dishes of Mexican origin: quesadillas, burritos, nachos, and of course King Taco. Pupusas are like tacos, but tidier; like quesadillas, but fluffier. Plus they are fried and involve mass quantities of cheese. (Bonus: Like pizza, they're also fantastic cold and left over.) It's time for a pupusa New World Order, and the best bet for implementing it is El Rincón Salvadoreño. Translated to "the Salvadoran Corner," the spot occupies a teeny, tiny corner of Mercado Central. There are several other, namely breakfast, items on the short and sweet menu, but they are just sideshows to the main act. Try the chicharron, bean, and cheese for a comforting, traditional fave, or loroco (an edible flower) and cheese for something a little different. There are similar inventions, like the Mexican gordita and the Venezuelan arepa, but none are as manageable and greasy-good as the pupusa. And if you're still stuck on tacos, roll up your pupusa with some salsa and Salvadoran-style slaw. Here's to the pupusa!