An egg roll is so often the least-appreciated item on an Asian restaurant's menu. Little thought or preparation goes into it beyond dunking a prefab roll of sodden cabbage and limp carrot into the deep fryer. That sad state makes us more likely to reach for a cream-cheese wonton or a chicken wing, given a choice. Thankfully, at Taste of Thailand, the egg roll is anything but an afterthought. Here the vegetables are crisp and the roll itself flaky and bubbly with just the right amount of chewiness. The whole package comes out tasting refreshingly meaty, but without the overpowering flavor of MSG. Best of all is the dipping sauce, a delicious combination of fish oil, honey, red pepper flakes, and peanuts. It's an appetizer worthy of the entrée menu.