What is "real" Thai food? There's no simple answer, but there are certain hallmarks worth searching out: assertive heat, deep muskiness, depth of spice, shots of citrus, silken textures, and a blend of flavors that evokes life in one of the world's most gastronomically sophisticated countries. The food at True Thai rings all these bells and more, combining a warm but unpretentious dining environment with unapologetically engaging presentations of old favorites like pad thai ($9.95 with chicken, beef, or pork) and more offbeat selections such as the jerky-like Bangkok crispy sweet beef ($6.95), served with impeccably made sticky rice. A dish like pineapple curry ($9.95 with chicken, beef, or pork) sounds straightforward enough on the menu. But it seems to defy physics on the palate; despite its deep blend of spices and coconut milk base, it's refreshingly light, a soulfully elegant trip to Thailand in a bowl. True Thai? Most definitely, and damn good, to boot.