The newly opened Alaska Eatery puts a lot of stock in its grilling operation, which dominates the restaurant's foyer and crowds up much of the menu. This is both wise and fitting. The restaurant has figured out a remarkably savory way to prepare food, and is squeezing it for all it's worth, letting smoky undertones creep artfully beneath the surface of many varieties of fish and meat. The bull's-eye, however, is the fire-grilled, window-cut king crab legs. At $30.95 a pound, the legs are not meant to be a daily or weekly...or, for that matter, monthly indulgence. But when you need to celebrate something important, few meals can match this particular seafood entrée in terms of screaming "Woo-hoo!" The meat is startlingly fresh and sweet, as scrumptious as newly caught Maine lobster but even more delicate in texture, practically melting in your mouth as you chew. The window-cutting of the legs—they're sliced in half, lengthwise, by a band saw—means that eating the meat is a simple matter of inserting a fork, (optionally) dipping your piece in the provided drawn butter, and then stuffing the crab into your mouth. If you're the kind of seafood fan who enjoys having your pleasure synapses busted open by the gastronomic equivalent of an ax-wielding maniac, get to Alaska Eatery, on the double.