Over the last year the buzz about Osteria I Nonni has changed. People once murmured that the splashy, marble-accented pasta palace in Lilydale, just south of the river from St. Paul, was great if they knew who you were, but now people are saying it's just great—and greatly, truly Italian. How Italian is it? The selection of primi alone is enough to bring homesick Italian tears to the eyes: Chitarra all'Amatriciana with tomato, guanciale, chilies, and pecorino Romano; Elicoidali alla Norcina with sausage and black truffle butter; polenta bramata with ragu of wild boar and pecorino Toscano stagionato. What the heck is all that? Good, good stuff. And fear not your need to translate, the menu even comes with a glossary.