Ever seen a boxer go at a speedball, just attacking it? Ratta-tatta-ratta-tatta-ratta-tatta-tat-tat-tat. That's kind of what contemplating the wine list at Cesare's (pronounced chez-a-ray's) is like. It sits on the table innocuously enough, just a sheaf of office paper, like someone's TPS reports, left behind. But you pick it up, and ratta-tatta-tatta, it starts: hundreds and hundreds of wines. The Rieslings alone send you reeling. There's stuff from Germany, from Austria, from Alsace, and domestic bottles, too. But what to pick? The 2004 Monchoff Estate is certainly a bargain at $24, but at $27, the 1998 Alsatian Domaine Martin Schaetzel has got to be the better pick, right? Ooh, but there's Austrian Weingut Prager Federspiel Riesling, and you've read about that one.... And while you flip through the pages and pages your eye breezes past cheapie Washington state Rieslings and even sometimes the granddad big king of them all, rare Austrian Trockenbeerenauslese. That has to be the pick—when will you ever get the chance to taste that again? Not in this lifetime, certainly. Ratta-tatta-rattat-tatta.