Grocery stores have made great strides lately in popularizing sushi basics. Consequently, sushi bars are more popular than ever. This has been great for the bottom line at all of the best local sushi joints, but it has led to a new sort of problem: All too often, sushi bars are greeting their staggering crowds with slapdash creations that are more about clearing the sushi chef's ticket window than creating any kind of art. Origami, however, remains utterly dedicated to creativity and artfulness, as expressed through fish. On a recent visit to the Ridgedale Origami we ordered omakase (chef's choice) and were recipients of a special plate with four pieces of sushi, each distributed like tiny sculptures on a large, white four-cornered bowl. In the hollow of the bowl were two salads. One, based on chopped shrimp, was pale, elegant, and minimal like a snowball from the sea; beside it sat another salad, this one cubes of ruby-red tuna cloaked in a dressing based on puréed avocado, the whole thing topped with angular strips of fresh-cut avocado so that it looked like a wee Calder mobile. Around the salads were scattered fuchsia orchid petals. Up on two corners of the plate were gorgeous, tiny bites: broiled eel topped with a little hat of custard-light tamago, a piece of mackerel draped with a pressed paper of translucent yellow seaweed, the whole thing topped with a pea-sized garnish of fresh-grated ginger. It was the most creative and ambitious thing we saw in a sushi bar all year. Until the sushi roll we had next: a mad bundle made with crunchy rice crackers, salty-sweet pistachios, minced fish, a rich and spicy wasabi mayonnaise, and a dark red chili sauce. It sounds ridiculous, we know, but it felt nice, happy, jazzy, and fun. Art can be fun, you know. And art can also be quiet, contemplative, and serious, like the aforementioned plate with the orchid petals. Art can be all kinds of things. If you want art to be sushi, you'd best go to Origami

Location Details

30 1st St. N.
Minneapolis MN 55401


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