The most magnificent desserts often show up when you least desire them: at the conclusion of a filling, wine-soaked meal. And that's why Goodfellow's front corner bar, with its handful of tables, is an insider's ace in the hole. Settle in and order a coffee or a glass of bubbly and one of renowned pastry chef Joan Ida's so-rich, so-smart concoctions, like the devastating cylinder of warm banana bread pudding served in a lake of coffee-toffee sauce so good it stops time ($7). Or the Grand Dessert Sampling ($10), nearly a dozen darling chocolate desserts, each expertly prepared and beguiling. Go there on the way to First Avenue or after a night at the orchestra and you'll be clear enough in your thoughts and palate to really appreciate the majesty of these complex, cossetting concoctions.


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