They glimmer like little sea jewels in frothy laces of foam, the appetizers at Aquavit. Mussel meats nestled together like butterflies in a bowl of chilled dashi broth, lobster in half-moons of ravioli, wee herring tacos with a fiery spine of horseradish, polenta cakes the size of quarters hosting braised twists of beef that look like miniature campfires. Nowhere in Minnesota is food more art than it is in Aquavit's appetizers. If you sat down at this bar once a week for a year, you'd know more about the transubstantiation of food to idea than you ever dreamed possible. And you should try it.


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