BEST DELICATESSEN (2002)

Zaroff's

Matzoh brei, stuffed sweet-and-sour cabbage with raisins, blintzes, potato latkes, chicken in a pot ($11.95), chopped liver, rugalach ($2.25), brisket, knishes, half-sour pickles--there isn't a single item missing from Zaroff's lineup of delicatessen favorites. They even do shiva catering for funerals. And they have stuffed derma, and kishka with gravy ($4.95). We can't think of one thing that Zaroff's doesn't have that an old New York deli has. Well, except for old people. Where are the old people? Every time we're here, families, kids, singles, even outrageously aerobicized glamour queens on cell phones--but never any old people. There's even tongue on the menu! Why, we've never been anywhere else with a tongue sandwich on the menu that wasn't just swimming with old people. Actually, it's kind of creepy, in a Logan's Run sort of way. Is it because there was no good deli for so long that the old-guard deli fans learned to stay home? Is it because they can't cotton to the newfangled Miami-modern room? Don't let this happen to you: The room may be new, but the heart and soul are as old as can be.

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