Sacre bleu! The one Jacques tied on last night! Mon Dieu! Eet is no surprise, though. What dreenks! A wine list of hundreds--hundreds!--of never-before-seen-around-here French wines, bewitching house cocktails, French and Belgian ales, even house-made spiced wine. (Try La Trappe Belgian ale on tap ($4.50), served in a signature broad-bellied short goblet to accentuate its sharp, biscuity and flowery aroma; a classic French apéritif, like Pernod ($5), served classily in a two-glass setup; a lemony Champagne-and-brandy cocktail called the Azur ($6); or one of the 250-some bottles of wine. Need ballast? Fill up on fresh-cut baguettes, creamy brandade, and buttery mussels. But skip the pricey entrées (ooh la la, they are not so--how do you say?--marvelous). Still, if you have curiosity in your spirit and a few francs in your wallet, the big, humming, mustard-colored room with the big bar is the best place in town for wine, women, and eggs. Oui, eggs! For free. On the bar, just sitting there, waiting to top off those Bordeaux. And deed you hear how Jacques and Marie Claire ended up with the eggs in the fountain by Peavey Plaza? Ooh, le scandale!


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