Saturday night a few weeks ago, and every table seemed to have a steak on it. Some filets, yes, but most often the sirloin, an under-$15 piece of meat with more flavor than one deserves for the price, especially considering the steak comes with all the best trimmings of an old-school supper club: complimentary relish trays, green salads dressed with homemade, old-fashioned offerings like Green Goddess or a tasty French. In fact, you could argue that erté is the supper club of the new millennium, synthesizing the best of the old school with some of the best aspects of modern restaurant culture: a decent wine list with a whopping 30 by-the-glass, fresh fish options done with a light and practiced hand, and even a couple of vegetarian options (vegan cassoulet, anyone?). No, we didn't see anyone with it either, but for modern life, it's as necessary as a fire extinguisher, and it's nice to see it there, poised for use.


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