Best of the Twin Cities®

Best Of 2001

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Food & Drink

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Best Of :: Food & Drink

BEST SALAD
Lucia's
Vincent Marcinelli

Just consider a recent Lucia's salad made with greens, Spanish air-cured tuna, roasted fennel, and caper berries, all united with a sun-dried tomato vinaigrette ($9.95). What balance! What strength! Or another salad of mixed greens with verjus vinaigrette, apples, hickory nuts, and a French goat-cheese crouton ($8.25). What original simplicity! Not only does Lucia's reliably have the best salads in town--you should see the jewel-like piles of pomegranate seeds, the bits of roast pear, the artist's-palette compositions--but the place feels like the best salad in town: A bunch of smart ingredients all mixed together with perfect harmony. In this case we mean customers impervious to the lure of this month's hot new restaurant, we mean an admirable wine list, we mean that lovely (and newly nonsmoking) bar, those gorgeous desserts, that so-light-it-nearly-levitates room. Except we get to be the fennel, you have to be the hickory nuts. No backsies.

1432 W. 31st St., Minneapolis, 55408
MAP
612-825-1572
BEST APPLE ORCHARD
Afton Apple

Given how hard Afton and Hastings are working to avoid becoming entangled in the sprawling web of St. Paul's suburbs, we're relieved to predict that Afton Apple should be able to sustain its countryside character for some time to come. Fairly remote but still easy to find, the orchard is a fruit-picker's paradise, stretched over 170 acres of rolling fields outlined by lofty poplar trees. The spread of activities is as vast as the property Afton Apple occupies: Visitors can hop on a hayride for a tour of the apple spectrum, from tart Haralson to classic Cortland, crisp Honey Gold to succulent Sweet 16. The apple crop is at its peak from August 11 to October 31 (prime-time pickin' season varies for the 11 types of juicy reds available), but there's always something to do. Summer visitors can pluck a pint of raspberries and fall patrons can peruse the Halloween pumpkin patch. Those up for a crash course in orienteering should check out the six-acre corn maze, while the more lethargic might prefer to retreat to the recently expanded store and café to sip hot cider. Want that straight-off-the-tree authenticity without the manual labor? In addition to fresh peaches, blueberries, and cherries, Afton Apple also sells bushels and pecks of apples already picked by someone else.

14421 S. 90th St., Hastings, 55033
MAP
651-436-8385
BEST ASIAN GROCERY
United Noodles
Tony Nelson

United Noodles is the Asian grocery where you come for the vast selection, stay for the cleanliness and organization, and return for the reasonable prices and helpful, friendly service. It is the only place to go when you appreciate a Lunds-like environment and your shopping list includes durian and dried squid. Looking to learn about kimchi, pick up some fermented black beans, and score some jumbo shrimp for less than $8 a pound? Done, done, and done. Lazy folks with adventurous palates will definitely appreciate the large frozen section, featuring packaged pot stickers and dim sum items. The squeamish need not worry, head-on/feet-on fowl are well-packaged and confined to a cooler, and products are so neatly grouped that it's nearly impossible to accidentally bring home anything too exotic.

2015 E. 24th St., Minneapolis, 55404
MAP
612-721-6677
BEST BÁNH-MÌ
Saigon Restaurant
Ed Neaton

What are bánh-mì? Here's one answer: They're the love child of French baking and Vietnamese salads--Vietnamese hoagies made of cilantro, sweet pickled carrots, daikon, julienne cucumber, slivered jalapeños, spicy mayonnaise, and some sort of filling all smooshed together inside a crispy, airy loaf of French bread. But here's a better answer: They're the best thing to happen to cheap gourmets since pizza was cut into slices. Don't buy it? Then take your $2 to Saigon for proof. This place makes bánh-mì that make you want to renounce all other foods. They make all their ingredients, and breads, from scratch, from the eggy mayo to the savory, French-accented pâté. Try the meatball bánh-mì, a pillowy, comfort-food extravaganza, or the house-made barbecued pork, or the straight-up veggie version. Next thing you know, you'll be up on the order board, one of those lucky souls getting 100 at a time.

704 University Ave., St. Paul, 55103
MAP
651-225-8751
BEST BAGELS

Hometown boy-made-good Mike Sherwood sure has won us over with his bagels. The rounds bear chewy crusts and thick layers of toppings, and they emit the sweet, biscuity fragrance you hope for when you rip into one. Sherwood takes extra points because of his good Dunn Bros. coffee, and he's so eager to please he even (and this is so unheard-of) delivers orders of $25 or more to anyplace within three miles of the Bagelry's Lexington-and-Larpenteur location. Sherwood worked in North Dakota (!) learning the art of bagel making, and he does a stand-up job at making the things--especially considering we live in such a blueberry-white-chocolate-chip-bagel sort of world. Who says birth is destiny? Sherwood proves all you need to make great bagels is a love for the things.

BEST BAKERY
Wuollet Bakery

Who would have guessed that ecstasy could cost a mere $2.99? That's the going rate for a Turtle Bread cherry swirl. It's the size of a salad plate, and the flaky, buttery pastry is nothing less than heavenly. Toss in the glaze (sweet, but not sickly) and the cherry filling (tart and juicy) and you have a truly magical breakfast moment. Then it's time to ogle the cakes and pies. The carrot cake is tall as a skyscraper ($21 for a small one, $39 for a large). The key-lime pie bursts with zesty-sweet citrus ($15.99 plus a $2.50 pie tin deposit). And then there's the opera cake ($11.99), a recent addition to the lineup. Named for the Paris Opera, the dainty layers--almond cake soaked in coffee and rum syrups, filled with coffee buttercream--resemble a music sheet. The snap of bitter coffee permeating the smoothest, butteriest cream imaginable makes every single bite like lightning. Of course, you can't leave without sampling the bread. Try a delicate French baguette ($2.99) or a loaf of the meaty Jewish rye ($3.99). It wouldn't be hard to spend an entire day here in a true taste orgy.

1080 Grand Ave., St. Paul, 55105
MAP
651-292-9035
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BEST SALAD: Lucia's

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