There was a time when restaurants bit the dust, and the dust stayed bit: RIP, Loretta's Tea Room, RIP Azure. No longer! Sri Lanka Curry House disappeared for a couple of years, and then came back better than ever. Royal Orchid went bye-bye for almost as long, and then came back as shiny as a new penny. King & I was reborn ten times bigger. Robert Lee came back smaller, with Dragon Court, but better. Harry Singh's looks to be popping back up in Uptown. If there is a downside, it's this: We've begun not to mourn closing restaurants--we barely blinked when Udupi burned down. Instead we rub our hands together with glee at the thought of their seemingly inevitable return


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