It takes awhile for out-of-towners to fully grasp what the rest of us already know: It's almost impossible to get authentic Mexican food and booze in the same place in this town. Blame arcane zoning laws that make it tough to get a liquor license, blame our Scandinavian taste buds, but it seems as if we're stuck with this freakish problem and we'll have to make the best of it. So the next time you'd rather have real Mexican food at a cozy neighborhood haunt than an artificially flavored margarita at a chain restaurant, we can think of no better place than Chiapas. This sweet little hole in the wall has been around for only three years, but someone must be putting the word out, because it's almost always packed. Not only is the food delicious; it's cheap. The excellent enchiladas verdes, made with fresh corn tortillas, will set you back just $7.99, while tacos brimming with marinated fish and shrimp and dappled with bits of cilantro can be had for a mere $6.99. Shredded pork tamales cost just $1.50. Even the most elaborate entrée, a soup made with octopus, crab, shrimp, and "secret condiments," is only $11.

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