BEST DELICATESSEN (2000)

Zaroff's place

What's a deli doing in a Minnetonka mall? Shut up and have some coleslaw (gratis when you walk in the door) or a half-sour pickle. Now peruse the menu: The matzoh-ball chicken soup is complex and delightful, the cabbage rolls stuffed to bulging. Lox is rich, potato pancakes meaty. As for us, we can't resist the pastrami sandwich. At lesser New York knock-offs the meat is cut paper-thin, smothered in cheese (cheese!?), and grilled like a Reuben. Not at David Zaroff's place. This native New Yorker knows that the only way to serve pastrami is solo: sliced heart-attack thick, stuffed between two slices of bread. You want mustard? Add it yourself.

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