The secret's in the enzymes, those biochemical wonders that dry-age steaks from mere meat to vessels of warm thunder. Those perky enzymes are most perfectly showcased at Manny's, where the ravenous crowds munch through a full-fledged herd of cattle every week. Along with the steers, Manny's offers an encyclopedic and provocative red-wine list, one of the greater concentrations of table-pounding local power brokers around, and vast vistas of decadent desserts to indulge your inner brat.


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