Does eating outdoors make you think mosquitoes and traffic exhaust? Not here: No Wake's boulevard is the Mississippi, whose rushing current foils the bugs and whose traffic consists of the occasional barge. As you sup on good, inexpensive American bistro food, contemplate the possibilities: What would Huck Finn make of all this? And speaking of fictional heroes, doesn't St. Paul's silhouette, when seen from up close and below (looming, towering, thrusting) look like scenery fit for a Superman? And in the rain, in the gray rain, isn't the view as darkly romantic as the nights of Wuthering Heights? Yes, even in the rain the indoor dining room on the converted boat makes it feel like you're outdoors--in a cozy, candle-lit sort of way.


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