BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANT (1999)
A well-prepared Mexican meal is a lesson in proportion and balance. Too much cheese turns even the best-intentioned dish into a gooey mess, and nothing ruins a good plate of rice and beans more than an overabundance of salt. Luckily the good folks of Tacos Morelos set the standard for balance in a modest storefront filled with cheerful mosaic tabletops. The chile relleno offers spicy fireworks with its mixture of tomato, garlic, cheese, and salsa, and the chicken enchiladas topped with mole poblano practically burst in your mouth with tangy freshness. The fajita fixings are delicately flavored with lime juice, and plenty of cilantro perks up tacos stuffed with sausage, steak, even seasoned cow brain for the adventurous. Fluffy corn tortillas accompany most orders, and a variety of Mexican sodas are available. Be sure to stop by for breakfast, when huevos are king.