They've got aces under the table, these folks: The Oz-like view of downtown Minneapolis, the rock-solid menu that encompasses both very good sushi and excellent versions of comfort foods like sukiyaki and tempura, plus discreet, slightly formal service to match the elegant dining room. True, they're not as adventurous or sophisticated as Origami, nor as friendly and eager to please as Fuji-Ya. But they're elegant, confident, and reliable--the James Bond of Japanese restaurants, Roger Moore era.


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