BEST GREEK RESTAURANT (1999)
These cities' Greek restaurants are so different, they almost defy being lumped together as a category: Christos is masculine and elegant, Myconos festive, It's Greek to Me airy and familial. But Gardens of Salonica consistently charms us with a grace composed of equal parts generosity (a Greek salad with every entrée!), attention to detail (roasty hand-cut, oven-browned fries come with the inexpensive sandwiches), and value (the five-dollar appetizer combination is one of the best cheap lunches around), all happily leavened with artsiness (those dangling rock sculptures!) and seasonality: Fresh artichoke and lamb special? Ah, spring again.