The chicken wing may be simultaneously the most common and the most maligned member of the bar-food pantheon. Everyone has them on the menu, no one seems to give them much thought, and after a few beers, you don't care too much what they taste like. Not so at Eli's: Here the scrawny little wing gets just as much respect as everything else the kitchen sends out. The house wing, a spicy, kick-in-the-pants lemon-pepper/garlic number, is no slouch, but for a real treat look up the week's specials on the big chalkboard. Recent favorites have included a no-mercy three-mustard wing, a crunchy pepper-herb wing, and a positively sublime ginger-plum wing. Moral: Rules are made to be broken.


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