Overwork the meat and it's tough. Underseason it and it's mere ground meat. Overspice it and it's utterly ruined. In prewar Eastern Europe, butchers had perfected their skills of combining cuts and varieties of meat to get distinctive, unique flavors, finely finessing the sausage arts. But who knows how to do that anymore? Walter Gorden, that's who. Kramarczuk's master sausage-maker learned his art from founder Orest Kramarczuk, who learned from an Austrian butcher in the scary days before World War II. And that's why Kramarczuk's specialty fresh sausages--the pork Krakowska, the garlicky Ukrainian, and the hearty bratwurst, for instance--draw gourmet orders from all over the nation. Old-style Eastern European sausage-making might not be the most glamorous art, but it certainly has its connoisseurs.


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