Let's just say you set out to find fault with Goodfellow's. Can't pick on the wine list--the 400 offerings stack up to anyplace internationally. Servers usually prove a good target, but staffers at Goodfellow's are smart, graceful, unobtrusive, perfectly timed. The food isn't going to help you: artful, inventive, adventurous, and tasty as all get-out. Shrimp blini with a roast tomato confit and chipotle mayonnaise? Don't mind if I do. Succulent roast Carolina quail on a crisp sweetbread salad with a haunting creole mustard sauce? Here, please! The space? Nah, this deco palace glitters under the mellow lighting and seems half-museum, half-backdrop for the romantic scenes in the next Batman movie. Price? For what you get, it's hard to find fault. Goodfellow's. Get with the program already: You need a big-band orchestra and a rotating dance floor if you want to stay king of the hill.


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