BEST RESTAURANT FOR LATE-NIGHT DINING (1998)

The gravel-voiced waitress behind the counter may not look like much of a chef, but she'll set you up right with a burger, some pork chops, an ice cream malt, or a platter of potatoes O'Brien (sometimes they're a heavenly hash of crisp, browned potatoes, cubes of salty country ham, and sweet bits of fried onions and peppers, and sometimes they're a glutinous inedible mash; think of them both as a food and a tool for personal fortune-telling). If you don't like Mickey's, tell it to the river: Leave out Embers, Denny's, and Perkins (and who wouldn't?), and only half a dozen places in town serve chow after 1 a.m. Mickey's is two of them.