What's most impressive about Broviak's is that you could so easily decide to throw a dinner party, or even a wedding, at 3 o'clock one afternoon, and go and buy everything you'd need for the event in one stop: Perrier-Jouët and champagne flutes, Absolut and Bloody Mary mix, New French Bakery bread and imported truffle-laced pâté de foie gras, paper table settings, cheese, olives from all over Europe, Italian pasta, sauce, coffee, tea, chocolates, wedding-party gifts, cigars, port--all you'd need to supply is the dress, the guests, and some ice. Modeled on New York's Dean & DeLuca, Broviak's may not be perfect (no decent prosciutto, some items more gimmicky than desirable), but give them time: They've only been open a few months and they're already years ahead of everybody else in town.


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