BEST GERMAN RESTAURANT (1998)

You're too enamored of German food to stay home, but having driven 40-odd miles to sample delicacies like John Schumacher's raisin-studded sauerbraten, you're in no shape to drive home--you're too full. Too full because the beef in the sauerbraten is as soft as cheese, the flavor as potent as the imported Bavarian beers featured at Schumachers' beautiful 19th-century bar. Too full because you could not resist trying some of your dining companion's whisper-light wiener schnitzel. Too full because even after all that you indulged in a breathtaking Austrian dessert like the frozen meringue tower, which looks more like Baroque art than food. Clearly, there are only two options: One, move to New Prague. Or two, next time go for the lower-priced, smaller-portioned lunch.