Dim sum, a celebratory southern Chinese brunch (which translates literally as "dot heart" and poetically as "heart's delight"), is a meal made up of as many little appetizer-size portions of hard-to-make dishes as you care to order, and the best to be had around town these days is at My Le Hoa (pronounced May Lee Wah), a spacious spot in an unlikely strip mall in Little Canada. Carts course down the wide aisles between tables, there's lots of laughing, pointing, and shouting, and all of the servers speak enough English to explain what exactly everything is. Best bets include the lightly sautéed broccoli rabe, choices from the world of dumplings like har gao (translucent shrimp dumplings the size of Ping Pong balls), sturdy pork dumplings, shark-fin dumplings (pork dressed up with nearly undetectable shark-fin cartilage), and wide, gummy chow fun noodles. Bring enough buddies to share at least one of everything that catches your eye.


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