Mattie's on Main takes a leaf from the past

A 19th-century madam inspires a brothel-style bar and restaurant in Riverplace

Mattie's on Main takes a leaf from the past

Back in the bad old days of the late 1800s, the Minneapolis riverfront was a rougher place than it is now. Prostitution was largely tolerated in the red-light district, and among the madams running the show there was Mattie St. Clair, a notorious figure whose adventures were chronicled in the local papers. She is the namesake for the new Mattie's on Main (full name: Mattie St. Clair's House of Spirits on Main Street), a new bar, restaurant, and venue just across the river from the old houses of ill repute that's looking to bring an element of dangerous fun back to this part of town — in a cleaned-up 21st-century way, of course.

The owners, who also run the adjacent Wilde Roast Café, have taken over the home of the old Kikugawa in Riverplace. Black and red decor gives the space a gothic brothel-saloon feel, with paisley wall designs and intricately adorned chandeliers and framed mirrors catching the eye. Also prominently featured is Mattie's logo, an homage to the top-hatted, cigar-smoking madam in silhouette form, and guests are implored in writing to "Leave Satisfied." A bar and a stage dominate the main room, with tables and booths in between; more tables and bar seating are lined along the glass-walled atrium area, which offers scenic river views (Mattie's doesn't have an outdoor patio, but in winter this will be the next best thing).

The kitchen is turning out dishes with a wide range of influences, mostly along the lines of elevated bar food with some fine-dining flourishes. Flavors drawn from East Asia, Scandinavia, Greece, and elsewhere coexist mostly happily, though there were a couple of clunkers in the bunch. It seems you can't go wrong here, though, with appetizers. Lefse nachos provided a welcome twist on that dish's basic idea. Having never encountered deep-fried lefse, our party expected the dish to be a bit soft as well as cold, but it turns out the potato-based flatbread crisps up at least as well as any tortilla or pita. These chips were used to scoop up a nutty and rich pistachio guacamole along with diced cucumbers, sliced radishes, smoked salmon, and crème fraîche, and the result was a fresh, crunchy, creamy, summery delight. Wontons were not quite as perfectly crisp, but the pickles and jalapeños added to the cream cheese filling made them perfectly mid-level spicy and a bit tart, and they were served with a complementary sweet peach jam.

Mattie's homemade pizza rolls
Alma Guzman for City Pages
Mattie's homemade pizza rolls

Location Info

Map

Mattie's on Main

43 Main St. SE, 144
Minneapolis, MN 55414

Category: Bars and Clubs

Region: University

Details

MATTIE'S ON MAIN
43 Main St. SE, Minneapolis612-886-2121, mattiesonmain.com
food items $6-$19

The Twin Cities' new best State Fair dish not served at the State Fair has to be Mattie's Monte Cristo dippers: Sliced ham and Gruyere are encased in batter, fried, and speared on a stick. The batter is lightly applied but just thick enough to have a fluffy interior in addition to the very thin, crackling outer layer. A powdered-sugar dusting renders these something like a hot ham- and cheese-filled mini doughnut — crazy delicious, and though they come with the same peach jam, it's wholly unnecessary here. Homemade pizza rolls were another success: They didn't consist of tongue-burning filling tucked in a crust, but rather a rolled pastry topped with perfectly browned mozzarella and finely chopped Italian sausage, served with a zippy house-made pizza sauce.

The Butcher's Plate is generously portioned at $14: four large hunks of hard salami, a whole warm bratwurst (made especially for Mattie's), smoked salmon, cheese curds (not fried), house-made crackers that were pillowy and paprika-sprinkled, and pickled beets, cucumbers, and mustard seeds. All worked together nicely.

The rest of the food menu consists of salads, pizzas, burgers, and sandwiches, plus four entrée plates. The items in the last category felt a bit out of season: Both the chicken osso buco (which came with excellently salty, crisp, creamy Pecorino polenta cakes) and the coriander-encrusted sea bass (served with pearl onions, carrot and potato matchsticks, and creamy vermouth white sauce) had terrific flavors and were well executed; we'll order them again in the fall.

A house salad had a light, citrusy dressing on mixed lettuces and baby button mushrooms, but there was too much fig-syrup glaze on and around the pecans, making some bites cloyingly sweet. The Mama-San pizza, topped with hoisin-marinated pulled pork, scallions, and chuck fu slaw (cabbage with a rice vinegar dressing), had all the taste notes right but the pieces just didn't hold together on a crust. A better option is the Far East BBQ sandwich with all the same things on it (either version is improved with sriracha, available on the side). Other sandwiches include the Gobbler, a turkey burger that was, bite by bite, either too bland or too spicy, and the Balsamic Blueberry Manchego, a fruit-and-cheese number that provides a more interesting than usual vegetarian sandwich and was quite tasty, if a bit dry and perhaps closer to a dessert than a meal.

Burgers were well seasoned and perfectly cooked to medium, and though at times they proved too juicy to be contained by the bottom half of a bun, they were enjoyable. The Morning After is made with bloody Mary mix and topped with a fried egg and pickled celery. It's also spread with a Spanish olive tapenade, the flavor of which did not dominate the burger as feared. Its hangover-curing abilities weren't put to the test this time, but their existence seems likely. The rosemary whipped goat cheese topping the Paregoric burger gave it a smooth richness and added an herbal note that made this the best sandwich we tried. The house-made chips on the side are a bit thick but very crunchy, and so lightly seasoned they actually taste like potato. An upgrade to sauteed cauliflower paid off too, but French fries were hit-or-miss, soggy on one visit and crispy on another (the tangy house-made ketchup was always excellent, though).

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3 comments
James St Clair
James St Clair

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Shawn Lloyd
Shawn Lloyd

My great grandfather Victor Lloyd worked for Kid Cann as a driver in Minneapolis. Victor was also a Teamster. In Kid Cann's early days he worked for the pimps in the Red Light district after selling newspapers in Newspaper row.

orangevening11
orangevening11

There was a red light right next to where Mattie's is now as well as TWO across the river. See Penny Peterson's Madams of Minneapolis for more info

 
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