Uptown's Coup d'Etat is love at first bite

The duo behind Borough & Parlour opens a casually grand Italian eatery unique in Uptown

Pastas were simple and gorgeous. A dish of wide ribbons of pappardelle with pearl onions, pancetta, and mushrooms was flavorful enough to make a satisfying entree, but subtle enough to be kid-friendly. Sides are served family-style and are mostly familiar recreations of some of the vegetable dishes at Borough, most notably the Brussels sprouts, which were tasty as ever but played it safe with the expected bacon-and-rosemary preparation. A side of butternut squash with saba was under-roasted and lacked flavor, though we did appreciate the rustic presentation; it's served simply scooped-out and skin-on. If you need a side to round out your meal, go for the outrageously creamy polenta, made with mascarpone and chips of crispy garlic.

There's no need to overthrow anyone, because there's not another restaurant exactly like Coup d'Etat in the Uptown territory. The kitchen produces approachable, comforting, harmonious dishes from start to finish. Service is well-paced and well-informed, and the staff seem to be truly engaged with the food they are serving. Double daters, off-duty waiters, and even Uptown haters take heed: Your nearby late-night dining options just got a lot more compelling. The discussion about where to have a post-movie drink need only consist of a question mark and three French syllables.

Pork osso buco with orange, fennel, fregola, turnip, and marcona almond
Katie E. Holm for City Pages
Pork osso buco with orange, fennel, fregola, turnip, and marcona almond

Don't miss our gorgeous photos of Coup d'Etat in Uptown...

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12 comments
Ryan Kazeck
Ryan Kazeck

Just cause you donkeys are used to eating mcdoubles most likely.

eatereater
eatereater

I dunno... gutsy would be naming the joint Pronunciamiento.  


Oh and what vegetable dishes at Borough?  LOL.     

jazz
jazz

Better than crave!

olduptown
olduptown

Meh, I'll stick to Lake and Irving, more of a neighborhood hang out, good food with out the 20 yr. olds. 

 
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