Sonora Grill flourishes in Longfellow

The Midtown Global Market favorite expands its reach on Lake Street

You can't go wrong with a caramelo, but diners with heartier appetites can share the massive plate of pollo asado, a butterflied whole grilled chicken that was literally dripping with savory juices, served with refried beans, hand-made chewy tortillas, and papas en escabeche, a mustard-y Mexican spin on potato salad, served warm. Another satisfying square meal that's been added to the menu at this location is the plate of uniquely cut ribs, which have much more grill flavor than smoked flavor. They were sliced, not into slabs or so-called riblets, but into easy-to-handle, medium-thick coins. Each medallion had fairly equal parts meat and fat, and the accompanying acidic slaw and small bowl of fruity salsa helped to balance out the relative saltiness of the dish.

Though more than satiated by our Sonoran spread, we couldn't resist ordering dessert; once you see that another table has churros, you can think of little else. Our batch felt a little under-fried, actually, with the center dough tasting almost like a gently set custard. The classic chocolate cake, layered with caramel and sprinkled with toasted coconut was perhaps a less authentic ending to our meal, but a very successful sweet nonetheless.

Fans of the original market stall will be happy to revisit old favorites (yes, they still have that bacon-wrapped hot dog) and have a lovely cocktail alongside those dishes. Newbies are bound to be impressed by Castillon's deft hand and inspired take on Latin fusion. Lucky Longfellowans.

Caramelos, one of Sonora Grill's greatest hits
Alma Guzman For City Pages
Caramelos, one of Sonora Grill's greatest hits


3300 E. Lake St., Minneapolis
starters $3-$9; entrees $9-$18

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