Groundswell evolves in Midway

The coffee shop transforms into a community catchall

Though flavors were really well-established in all the dinner entrees, some items we ordered seemed to have spent a little too long on the flattop. The house-made quinoa and black bean burger had a nutty texture and a nice amount of Southwestern spice, but the patty was blackened to a crisp. A blue-plate special of American meatloaf and gravy with crisp smashed fingerling potatoes was generously portioned and fully comforting, but the slab had to be deconstructed a bit to get past the too-crunchy outer layer and into the more tender middle. No one had any complaints about the spicy pimento mac and cheese, made with cavatappi and crisp bacon.

Groundswell is a coffee shop, yes, but sometimes it's also the site of a book-release party. It's where you might go on a double date to drink wine and create an instructor-led canvas painting. A place to meet your rag-tag team for Sporcle-hosted trivia. McCoy says in his mind there is one factor uniting all that they do at Groundswell.

"If there is just one word it comes down to, it's handcrafted," says McCoy. "Everything we do is powered by people, from the wooden tables we made and the tile we laid to our pizza crust and the jewelry we sell next door."

Coffee and then some: Groundswell owner Seth McCoy with a beer and a veggie flatbread
Benjamin Carter Grimes for City Pages
Coffee and then some: Groundswell owner Seth McCoy with a beer and a veggie flatbread

Details

GROUNDSWELL
1340 Thomas Ave., St. Paul
651-645-6466; groundswellmn.com
menu items $3-13; bakery items $2.50-$4.75

Something good is most certainly brewing here, and it seems like the neighborhood agrees. Power to the people.

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