Sparks touches on Mediterranean using wood-burning oven

Alma Guzman

Sparks's eclectic small plates include Korean bulgogi tacos with kimchi

Alma Guzman

Location Info

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Sparks Restaurant

230 Cedar Lake Rd S.
Minneapolis, MN 55405

Category: Restaurant > Bistro

Region: Uptown/ Eat Street

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Details

Appetizers $2-$6; entrees $9-$17

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More About

• Jonathan Hunt
• Highland Park (Brooklyn)
• Bryn Mawr College
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

The beverage selection, and the wine list in particular, manages to be both baffling and refreshing, with all kinds of unexpected global cameos: Japanese sake-based cocktails infused with tropical flavors, an inexpensive and easy-drinking Serbian red, and a $100 bottle of unfiltered California merlot. Beers on tap represent the best in local brews, including Lake Harriet Divine Oculust, Fulton Lonely Blonde, and Summit Oatmeal Stout Nitro.

There is plenty to like food-wise at Sparks, though I predict some will say the menu and restaurant need to have a clearer identity, perhaps more along the lines of Hunt's other restaurants. But the category Sparks already best fits into is that of beloved neighborhood eatery — the very thing this charming village has been missing. The food isn't on-your-deathbed memorable, but I have no doubt that many couples, families, friends, and neighbors will be making memories here anyway.