Eli's East is a classy but casual affair

Burgers, pasta, and cocktails are delightful

Eli's East is a classy but casual affair
E. Katie Holm

A whiskey old-fashioned is one of those unique cocktails that is as celebratory as it is dour. It's equally at home in a tumbler at the neighbor's annual Christmas party and in the hand of a melancholic old-timer who is drinking to forget. It's the drink of choice for Don Draper and your kookiest aunt. Whatever the motivation for requesting it, many people will tell you an old-fashioned is a cocktail you should never order from a busy bartender unless you intend to make an enemy. But at Eli's East—as at its forebear, Eli's Food & Cocktails in downtown Minneapolis—the atmosphere simply begs for the bitter warmth of an old-fashioned. With majestic, button-tufted booths and lamps turned down so low we saw more than a few diners use their cell phones as makeshift flashlights, it feels sacrilegious to just order a beer (though Eli's is one of the few places serving Boom Island's excellent local brews). No, you'll need something muddled, and even when the place is unimaginably busy, veteran bartender Richy Rivera, a transplant from Eli's downtown and the designer of the Eli's East drink menu, serves up the perfect old-fashioned.

As sure-footed as it is behind the bar, Eli's East is still in a somewhat experimental phase with its food. It's a wise decision on the part of owners Tai Ipsen and John McKenney to offer many of the dishes that made Eli's downtown such an institution. Devotees will be pleased to see that several signature items, including the indulgent penne and cheese, the black and blue burger, and the house-made pastrami, are still on the menu and are as good as you remember. Others lack bravado, like the jumbo lump crab cake, crisscrossed with a mustard mayo that would be better served on the side (as with any decent crab cake), the utterly drab Caesar salad (limp, whole-leaf romaine covered in dressing that was entirely lacking in garlic, and four—count 'em, four—croutons), and tomato-basil soup that had great flavor but, texturally, was like eating a cup of marinara sauce.

What Eli's East handles as well as its counterpart are the steaks. Though we experienced one misstep with a sorely undercooked strip, the other pieces, even the one that came tucked in a buttery bun on the steak sandwich, with super-salty blue cheese and sweet caramelized onions, were cooked to textbook standards. Still, there's an air of repressed desire in the "classic" dishes, as though the person preparing them, in this case executive chef Jeff Weber, wants to shake off the dust and reinvent. Perhaps that's why, as a group, the new small-plate offerings are some of the most successful on the menu. Chicken wings, in either a sticky honey-soy sauce, a Cajun dry rub (our favorite), or a weekly changing preparation, are crispy-skinned, meaty, and a popular choice for many diners. But the pork belly sliders should be a higher priority in the starters section. Thick cubes of fatty pork belly are coated in a sweet glaze and fried until crunchy, making for a multi-textured bite. The two mini sandwiches are finished with delightfully sour pickled carrots and onions and a subtly hot sriracha mayo. Even though the Asian flavors worked beautifully in the pork belly sliders, we were a little wary of the tuna tataki appetizer. It's rare to get tataki done well at a non-Japanese restaurant, but Eli's sesame-encrusted version was sliced pleasingly thin and seared righteously rare.

Eli's "Something Chocolate" is strawberry sorbet, puff pastry, and chocolate flourless torte
E. Katie Holm
Eli's "Something Chocolate" is strawberry sorbet, puff pastry, and chocolate flourless torte

Location Info

Map

Eli's East Food and Cocktails

815 Hennepin Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55402

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

Details

Appetizers $3-$10; entrées $12-$28

Aside from noticing the forward-leaning components like tamarind-spiked ketchup and tempura avocado, you can identify the newer dishes with an an easy rule of thumb. "Basically anything that doesn't say 'Eli's' in front of it on the menu is new to this location," our server explains. "The idea at the East location is that we're doing more upscale food in a dressed-down setting, whereas we were doing more casual food in an upscale atmosphere at the old Eli's."

Overall, the concept works, and judging by how many tables are occupied just a half-hour after Eli's opens, the residents of Northeast understand and appreciate it. "We are still seeing some of our regulars," manager Kate Maxey says. "But it's mostly people we don't know, and that's a good thing. We want this to be a place where you can come in after you've been doing yard work and want to get a steak or come after a wedding to get a PBR with your friends."

In addition to the ambitious small plates and a handful of satisfactory salads (quinoa gets used as more of a garnish than a salad base here), Eli's East is also aiming to include a wider variety of entrées in the "upscale home-style" category. They are, by and large, quite well done. Smoky, bacon-wrapped meatloaf is paired with a playful interpretation of tater tot hot dish, punched up with bell and jalapeño peppers. Coq au vin, with creamy mashed potatoes and more bacon, was tender but lacked depth. The pork tenderloin was nicely seasoned, moderately blushing, and accompanied by some admirably caramelized Brussels sprouts, but the potato pancake underneath it all was nothing but a pile of hash browns shaped into a circle, and the mushroom cream sauce was so thick and heavy it dragged down the whole dish.

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4 comments
Stephanie
Stephanie

So glad to have Eli's in my neighborhood. A heart felt welcome!

Monte
Monte

We love it!!! Nice sunny bar for day-drinking also!!!

David Foureyes
David Foureyes

I believe we all know Don Draper's drink is blended scotch and water.

 
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