Rye Delicatessen & Bar overcomes early missteps

We've got no beef with this deli

At breakfast, the smoked-meat Benedict was heavier than it was hearty and sloppily presented. The peppery, pastrami-like smoked meat was cut very thick and toasted till crisp, but it was unfortunately dry and slathered in an acid-leaning hollandaise that showed telltale signs of improper emulsification. My eggs were poached a little harder than I usually like, but the toasted bialy (like a bagel's unboiled, left-whole cousin) was a nice changeup from an English muffin. The caramel babkele looked like it would be more decadent than it was. Our server told us it was "like a little pastry that got drowned in caramel sauce." There was, indeed, a lot of sauce, but it was a bit grainy and didn't improve the dry interior.

B FRESH Photography

Location Info

Map

Rye Delicatessen & Bar

1930 Hennepin Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55403

Category: Restaurant > Deli

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

Details

Rye Delicatessen and Bar
1930 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis
612.871.1200; ryedeli.com
appetizers $3 - $7; entrées $9 - $15

With more apparent good than bad, one wonders whether Rye's earlier issues stemmed from trumpeting onto the scene with such a strong concept that it encouraged skeptics to accept nothing less than the delis of their youth. Nostalgia can be a powerful adversary to a new restaurant, and not to get too Carrie Bradshaw about it, but if naysayers would stop trying to make Rye something it's not, they might be happy with what it is: a neighborhood deli that isn't trying to completely reinvent the wheel but is succeeding in reviving a beloved space and bringing something new to Lowry Hill. Whatever the case, you can't argue with that house-made spicy mustard, and if you drink in the relaxed atmosphere and a few rye-heavy whiskey Manhattans, you might have a hard time arguing about anything at all.

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