The Lowry offers a new take on the urban diner

Burgers, oysters, and whiskey complete the "man food" circle

The Lowry offers a new take on the urban diner
Emily Utne
The Lowry adds a dash of sophistication to diner food, like this tuna poke. Take the tour.

At the new Lowry restaurant on Hennepin Avenue, you can now order a stiff drink where you once rented Cocktail. The former Hollywood Video's shelves of dramas and romantic comedies have been replaced by booths and bar tables. The eatery, which is split into two wings and covered in warm wood and windows, bills itself an "urban diner," and I was just trying to figure out exactly what that meant when a server approached the table and addressed me as "honey." This was no apron-wearing 1950s gal, but a model-thin, tattoo-clad young man with a helium-high voice. And his customers certainly weren't the same crowd who rubbed shoulders with The Mighty Ducks at Mickey's.

The Lowry is the newest of the Blue Plate restaurant group's eateries, and the second, after the Italian-themed Scusi, to stray a bit from the company's successful Neighborhood Grill formula (Edina Grill, Highland Grill, etc.). The Lowry's menu shares several dishes with the Grills'—the turkey burger, the tempura green beans, and the steak and pierogies among them—but takes a slightly more sophisticated slant on the concept.

The restaurant's signage and menus hype four categories of fare: burgers, whiskey, oysters, and eggs. One evening, a few friends and I attempted to divine their relationship, and why they'd been singled out to define the restaurant. Burgers certainly have mass appeal, but oysters and whiskey are more polarizing—they're items equally likely to disgust as delight the average diner. As for the eggs, sure we scramble 'em up for breakfast and scarf up deviled ones at picnics, but they're not necessarily a food that entices one to a restaurant.

Emily Utne

Location Info

Map

The Lowry

2112 Hennepin Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55405

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Uptown/ Eat Street

Details

The Lowry
2112 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis
612.341.2112; www.thelowryuptown.com
appetizers $4-$10; entrées $10-$15

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"It's man food," the lone male in our group suggested, noting the masculine aesthetic of the eatery's black leather booths. Okay. Burgers, check. Whiskey, check. Oysters, check. But eggs? "Think of the famous Paul Newman quote, 'I can eat 50 eggs,'" he said. Still, the rest of us weren't convinced the items went together. "In Esquire they do," the man replied. "This is the Esquire of restaurants."

Maybe so. But it's also Cosmo, People, Highlights, and AARP. The Lowry is a place for an early riser's 6:30 a.m. breakfast and a night owl's 1 a.m. nightcap. It's a place to bring a date, a client, or the kids.

And the burgers, by the way, are pretty good. The signature Lowry is a thick, juicy patty, smothered with bacon, sharp cheddar, and barbecue sauce. Its ho-hum tomato and shredded iceberg lettuce are a little too reminiscent of McDonald's, but its accompanying skinny fries are excellent, as is the raisin-studded coleslaw. Alongside the sandwiches are several new entrées, created by the Lowry's chef, Dustin Pallansch, with the help of Blue Plate executive chef Joan Ida. Crepes Pot-Au-Feu are thin French pancakes stuffed with tender braised beef, and they're delicious except for their too-salty gravy. A large, grilled, bone-in pork chop calls to mind Pallansch's most recent employer, the Strip Club Meat & Fish. The meat's char-marked flesh is robustly flavored and nicely married with polenta wedges and a rich mushroom-tomato sauce. The eggplant Parmesan is a little heavy, but it's a solid execution of the Italian staple. For something lighter, try the lovely platter of roasted vegetables heaped on a bed of arugula.

When I visited the Lowry, a month after its opening, the whiskey program appeared to be a little behind schedule. My server didn't have a printed menu and admitted that the staff's spirits training had been somewhat impeded by the state shutdown, which had delayed the restaurant's alcohol acquisition.

But if your server is unable to explain the difference between whiskey, bourbon, and scotch, he or she will hopefully go fetch a bartender who can. Whiskey, you will learn, is a broad term subject to regional variations. For example, Irish whiskey is usually made from barley, triple distilled, and aged in wooden barrels. Scotch, or whisky from Scotland (they spell it without the e), follows similar practices except it's typically double distilled and often treated with peat smoke to enhance the flavor. Bourbon is barrel-aged American whiskey, distilled from corn. Got all that?

Sampling helps. And the bartender can recommend a few favorites if you want to taste the difference between, say, a sweeter, caramel-scented Basil Hayden Kentucky bourbon and a more aggressive Redbreast Irish whiskey. The bar offers several whiskey cocktails, too, such as the Blood & Sand, which blends scotch with cherry liqueur, orange juice, and sweet vermouth. My favorite is the Lane Zamprey, which enhances rye whiskey by blending it with Grand Marnier, agave nectar, lemon juice, bitters, and the medicinal-tasting Italian liqueur Fernet-Branca. The drink has sweetness, tartness, and bitterness, plus an egg white's smooth, creamy froth. Just before the beverage is served, the bartender takes a lit match to an orange peel, warms it with the flame to release its oils, and rubs it around the rim of the glass. The act adds a heady citrus aroma and looks like a magic trick.

The craft cocktail list is just one part of the Lowry's beverage program, which is the most comprehensive of those at the Blue Plate restaurants. A carefully curated tap list is practically a requirement for a new restaurant these days, and the Lowry's manages to tuck in a few rarely seen brews among its mix of 37 local and international favorites, including everything from Grain Belt Nordeast to Belgium's Delirium Tremens. They also employ several trendy alcohol serving systems, including cask beer and keg wine.

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7 comments
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Payman3800
Payman3800

Damn I just read Rachel's position was eliminated so it's not by choice..I'm not a big fan of jargon, but my posting is stupid. Sorry Rachel, good luck.

Payman3800
Payman3800

what the hell is a 'program'...whiskey program, beverage program. good luck on your next 'program' Rachel.

Yup
Yup

What kind of "diner" charges $10 for this: hashbrowns, cheddar cheese, scrambled eggs, toast

You want to call yourselves a diner? Stop fronting and be a diner then, yuppies.

Thoom
Thoom

Rachel, as usual, I'm reading your column on a Tuesday evening, just as soon as it's available on the website. I can't understand why VVM/CP would want to shoot itself in the foot by getting rid of you, but they're probably too caught up in print media's race to the bottom to care.

Can't wait to see where you pop up next. Good luck!

East Coast Doug
East Coast Doug

Because they want someone who kisses ass!

It's not about the food, it's about the number of clicks,

Darla was #1. Rachel has matured. I guess that's too much for Shitty Pages!

Erica
Erica

Why do you even bother reading City Pages if you clearly hate it so much? This comment also is directed at all haters. Are you really that bored?

 
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