But the restaurant will likely become best known for its hand-held American eats. Pizzas have thin but pliable crusts that pop with brown bubbles and carry a slight yeasty tang. There's always a vegetarian version, whose toppings rotate every few days, and the kitchen comes up with such basic but addictive combinations as creamy tomato sauce, onions, and Parmesan cheese. Hot dogs come two to an order for $5.25, and they get all the details right, from the classic snap of the casing to the sauerkraut spiked with fennel seeds, just to give it a little edge. The most hedonistic of the offerings is the fried mortadella sandwich, which the staff sometimes describes as "bourgeois bologna." It's a delicious, open-face heap of lettuce, Gruyere cheese, fried egg, and griddled meat—and it may also be prepared with vegetarian mock bologna.
The pot roast sliders, which come three to an order for $7, are a simple classic. The meat is braised in Surly Bender beer until it easily separates into tender strands, and comes garnished with horseradish and pickled onion. More daring is the rock shrimp po' boy, in which a roll comes stuffed with the battered-and-fried curls, paired with finely shredded cabbage and thin apple slices, along with a wicked sriracha aioli. It's a spirited flavor-texture combination—fried seafood with crunchy, creamy, spicy, sweet garnishes—that really satisfies.
2933 Lyndale Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55405
Category: Bars and Clubs
Region: Uptown/ Eat Street
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Muddy Waters Bar & Eatery
2933 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis
www.muddywatersmpls.com
appetizers $3-$11; entrées $4-$18
In its new incarnation, Muddy Waters has added a dedicated baker and pastry maker, Sarah Botcher, who fills the glass sweets case with a changing assortment of cookies, muffins, and sometimes banana cream pudding with a gingersnap crust and toasted marshmallow top. And for those who can't stop craving Muddy's coffee, there's always the espresso shortbread and cappuccino semifreddo.
Having been there last weekend is seems as though Sarah and Danielle might not have perfected their management of the front of the house yet; it feels as though the inmates are running the asylum. If we wanted a omnipresent speed metal soundtrack we would have gone to Station 4........
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