Lowbrow Minneapolis: Definitely a crowd-pleaser

But Nicollet Avenue hot spot could do more with its concept

When I first heard about a new restaurant and bar called the Lowbrow, the name conjured up all sorts of imagery. Shag carpet and wood paneling. Walls plastered with steamy Danielle Steele and Playboy covers. All in the Family reruns playing on one video screen and Jersey Shore on another. Maybe even a card table set up in back for playing a few rounds of beer pong?

This theoretical Lowbrow, I imagined, would be a place where a woman wouldn't need to bother plucking her chin whiskers, and a lumpy, middle-aged man might proudly display his favorite T-shirt: "This isn't a beer belly, it's a gas tank for a sex machine." The waitresses would all have bad dye jobs and tramp stamps and would chew gum with their mouths open. In lieu of buying snorts of snuff or test-tube shots of alcohol, diners would give the waitress a couple of bucks in exchange for a squirt of Easy Cheese straight to the gullet.

After that, they'd throw on plastic bibs and tuck into plates of meatloaf and tater tots, with sides of mayonnaise. Then there'd be sloppy Joes and Hot Pockets, or those dill pickle slices wrapped in ham and cream cheese. Ooh, ooh—and the coffee would come out of vending machines!

The Lowbrow specializes in thoughtful bar food, like the Fire Breather burger with chipotle gouda, guac, and jalapeños
Alma Guzman
The Lowbrow specializes in thoughtful bar food, like the Fire Breather burger with chipotle gouda, guac, and jalapeños

Location Info

Map

The Lowbrow

4244 Nicollet Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55409

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Kingfield

Details

The Lowbrow
4244 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis
612.208.0720; thelowbrowmpls.com
appetizers $4-$9; entrées $7-$12

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Imagine my surprise when I found the real-life Lowbrow selling...quinoa and pinto beans? The restaurant's owners, Heather Bray and Jodi Ayers, aren't interpreting the Lowbrow name quite so literally, and they're offering a more Kingfield-relevant, family-friendly variation. (The two women met a decade ago at the Birchwood Café. Now Bray, most recently of Ike's Food & Cocktails and Lucia's To-Go, is the Lowbrow's manager, while Ayers, an alumnus of Moose and Sadie's and the Wedge Co-op, runs the kitchen.) The owners' idea was to turn conscientiously produced, local ingredients into affordable bar food, to make farm-to-table eating an everyday occurrence. Such thoughtful tavern fare is a niche that's not fully met in south Minneapolis, where asking for a grass-fed beef burger and a compostable takeout container at the neighborhood dive might be met with the same confused stares as an Ani DiFranco jukebox request.

In contrast to the old-school corner bar, the Lowbrow is an airy room with big windows and high ceilings. Other than a maze of mechanical ducts, there's nothing coarse or raffish about it. In fact, the space feels less 1970s basement than commercial photography studio. (Its former tenant was Rau + Barber.)

Many a Lowbrow patron sports chunky specs, facial scruff, and hooded sweatshirts—Michael Cera in a decade—but the crowd is less defined by looks than age. Aside from the toddlers tossing grilled cheese sandwich chunks, who arrived via the high-tech chariots parked outside, at most hours everyone in the place looks to be between 25 and 40.

A small bar lies along one wall, and while it's not lined with any of those ghoulish jars of pickled eggs or pigs' feet, it does offer a well-curated line of craft beer taps. A few design elements lend the space a retro vibe (a couple of backlit waterskiing signs near the restrooms, plus artwork by local screen printers Aesthetic Apparatus, including a North Woods-themed, paint-by-number-style mural covering one wall), but otherwise the space feels surprisingly generic. Sure, you can crack open a can of Hamm's, but there's something a little disappointing about not being able to gaze on the electronically rippling water of the company's vintage animated sign. Wouldn't half the fun of owning a place called the Lowbrow be the nights spent scouring eBay?

In any case, the Lowbrow's menu takes an approach similar to its more dignified design. While the fare is certainly affordable, you won't find the instant ramen noodles and microwavable burritos of the truly lowbrow. The pinto beans and quinoa are formed into the Lowbrow's veggie burger, which is, as most veggie burgers are, perfectly acceptable without being very remarkable. The menu is very vegetarian-friendly, though the Southern Fried Tofu—tofu sticks marinated, seasoned, breaded, fried, and served with house-made barbecue sauce—is better than the tempeh Reuben, which could use more sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, or Thousand Island dressing to cover up the tempeh's skunky fermented soybean flavors. (But nobody in town makes a tempeh Reuben like they used to at the late, lamented Café Brenda.... Sigh.)

The Lowbrow's grass-fed beef burgers are good, especially one known as the Fire Breather that's topped with chipotle gouda, guacamole, and sautéed jalapeños. Served with hand-cut French fires, the burgers are more than satisfying for a neighborhood place, though unlikely to draw diners from the other side of the river, as some local Ju(i)cy Lucy specialists do.

The pulled pork sandwich is also worth ordering on a repeat visit, as it pairs tender strands of Fischer Farms pork with sassy barbecue sauce and crisp coleslaw. The jalapeño poppers make for a pleasant upgrade on their greasy predecessors, as they're filled with a lighter mix of jack and cream cheeses and served with a buttermilk dipping sauce. The bison chili, served with chips made from local La Perla tortillas, is also good and marries well with a Winter Citrus Salad scattered with pomegranate seeds and orange and grapefruit segments carefully slipped from their membranes. Such a refined technique is a welcome luxury at a place that serves Dreamsicle Floats made with Buddy's orange soda.

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6 comments
Big Herb Dickerson
Big Herb Dickerson

Dear Rachel, maybe you should open your own restaurant. Who gives a shit what you think they SHOULD do? Write about what they do! This is a horrible review of a very nice place to have a burger, a beer and conversation with friends.

PS your not funny or witty. just boorish.

Mary
Mary

I agree that the intro to this piece went on a bit too long, though Rachel is a talented writer. My own experience at the Lowbrow wasn't so great. I got the Firebreather, but it wasn't spicy in the slightest and my fries were cold. I'd consider giving it one more shot, but probably only if the person I'm dining with insists. Otherwise, there are too many other consistently great burger restaurants around to go back to a dud.

Heather at Spoonriver
Heather at Spoonriver

We have the Cafe Brenda Tempeh Rueben (or with Turkey- a la Rachel) at Spoonriver!! We use Bubbies Saurkraut, and Organic Swiss Cheese. Ask for extra sauce for an awesome, messy, delicious experience!

ceb
ceb

I agree with Richard. The point was made after the first paragraph, no need to ramble on. I think the Lowbrow suits the "experience" just fine. If we were to take all restaurant names literally every spot in town would be oozing with overly kitschy decor...look what happened to Psycho Suzi's after their move! I am thankful Lowbrow keeps it simple.

Mo Dub
Mo Dub

Oh Richard, you boring griper. If you read the whole review it makes sense -- especially when Rachel talks about how the Lowbrow experience as it stands could use some perking up. It's definitely a missed opportunity so far -- it's like their halfway to completing what will be a great neighborhood spot.

rvm4
rvm4

Ugh. Three paragraphs of your "expectations" based on the name alone? I quit reading after two. If you like a place, don't bore us with all that irrelevant bullshit. One sentence of expectation followed by the "ah, but..." moment and this review would be worth reading.

 
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