If anyone can get away with being over the top—the audacity of a $13 hot dog, the grossness of a photographic close-up of a lunch lady's locks tucked into a hairnet—it is Parasole. Now that Cafeteria has joined Il Gatto and Chino Latino at Lake and Hennepin, they've essentially cornered the market. As one restaurant insider put it to me, these guys "own" Uptown. "They are a bunch of old farts, but they are good with their marketing. If there is one thing they know how to do, it's sell food to kids."