Piccolo's small plates enable chef to flex creative muscles

Doug Flicker's new restaurant is pint-size, but not on taste

At Piccolo, small plates are created with big-plate sophistication.
Alma Guzman
At Piccolo, small plates are created with big-plate sophistication.
The chioggia beet terrine.
The chioggia beet terrine.

I don't think that cultivating a "hot" foodie restaurant was really Flicker's intention—remember, this is a guy known to cook in a sock-monkey stocking cap! He may be using hip, millennial cooking techniques, but he is also thinking holistically about food production and social justice and engaging in the less-glamorous, patience-testing parts of those processes. Using a grow light in the restaurant's basement, Flicker is already raising microgreens and sprouting artichoke seeds; this summer he hopes to put some raised beds out back and maybe get a few chickens. As for the rest of the winter, he'll likely be doing more shoveling.  

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