Tiger Sushi roars into Uptown with its rockin' rolls

Chef would do right by Bruce Lee with his Flying Tiger Kick Roll

For entrees, Tiger offers several choices of tempura dinners, udon soups, and donburi, or rice bowls. (The first two I can recommend, but the donburi was a dud—a few shrimp tempura and a giant bowl of rice.) The most interesting dishes are those described by Edevold's rather hyperbolic copywriting. The "EXPLOSION of FLAVORS!" promised in a dish called J.R. and the Volcano was actually a rather muted, though tasty, medley. The dish is a heaping pile of raw fish mixed with sliced strawberries and mango, its soft creaminess perked up with kaiware sprouts, fish roe, and fuzzy tempura flakes. Among the ladies-who-lunch, the Volcano could become the new chicken salad—if so, we may soon see Tiger Sushi 3 in the western suburbs.

Mixing fruit and fish might not seem very Japanese, but neither does serving ceviche or a New York sirloin with port sauce and Amish blue cheese—both of which are on Tiger's menu. I tried the very un-Japanese-seeming fish tacos—two grilled flour tortillas filled with tataki-style seared ahi tuna, tomatoes, greens, and fresh mozzarella, of all things. When splashed with a bit of chili-lime-wasabi Tiger Sauce and dunked in chili sour cream, they reminded me a bit of a mid-'90s wrap.

One of the best dishes I tried was the beef tataki: paper thin slices of marinated steak, grilled to add a smoky char to the tangy notes of soy, garlic, ginger, lemon juice, and rice vinegar. My other favorite was J.R.'s Blackened Miso Cod, which arrived ultra moist, plump with the punch of a lime-miso marinade, and living up to the menu's assurance it would be "AMAZING!"

An "explosion of flavors!": The Volcano salad of raw fish, strawberries, and mangoes
Jana Freiband
An "explosion of flavors!": The Volcano salad of raw fish, strawberries, and mangoes

Location Info

Map

Tiger Sushi 2

2841 Lyndale Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55411

Category: Restaurant > Sushi

Region: North Minneapolis

Details

TIGER SUSHI 2
2841 Lyndale Avenue, Minneapolis
612.874.1800; tigersushiusa.comappetizers $5-$10; entrées $10-$26

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The desserts I tried were as creative as they were distressing. The Deep Fried Splendito Cake was a battered and fried pound-cake puck with a chocolate-caramel-mango core that landed in the stomach like a slap shot. Its cloying sweetness was more Splenda than splendid, and it left an odd taste in my mouth. If I could redo my order of the chocolate-drizzled sorbet sandwiches dubbed Little Blue Guppies, I would have asked the kitchen to hold everything but the wafer-thin, pecan-brown sugar cookies.

At times, Tiger Sushi 2 can feel like a sports bar with chopsticks. The stereo plays such classic tunes as Tom Petty's "Free Fallin'" and Elton John's "Tiny Dancer," while the television shows college football games. The sushi chefs give patrons fist-bumps across the bar or sip beers as they work. It may not be very traditional, but neither is the neighborhood.

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