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Safe as Banks

Minneapolis's new B.A.N.K. is monumental, breathtaking, awesome, historic—and disappointing

The grandeur of old money is open to the masses at this B.A.N.K.
Kris Drake
The grandeur of old money is open to the masses at this B.A.N.K.

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B.A.N.K.

88 S. 6th St.
Minneapolis, MN 55402

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

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And yet, with all that, I'm still glad the restaurant is here. It adds something priceless, rare, awesome, and historic to our city—namely our unbelievable bank, now served to us in a way that allows us to enjoy it. B.A.N.K. offers some glorious cocktails, like a blueberry mojito ($10) made with lots of fresh blueberries and mint—it tastes like a perfect summer day, caught in a glass. Or a white-grapefruit cosmo ($10), a sweet and tart concoction that tastes like grown-up candy, and is particularly hard not to down in one gulp. The B.A.N.K. cocktail is memorable and funny: a pink glass of pomegranate-enhanced vodka garnished with a sprinkling of real gold leaf—I suppose so your insides can get a sense of the same earthly magnificence that your outsides behold.

I don't think any tourist's visit to Minneapolis would be complete now without a visit to the bar in the middle of B.A.N.K., a cocktail, and a chance to gawk at one of the grandest spaces in Minnesota. If you're a native taking a visitor there, be sure to look through your cocktail at the room and decide if you feel your glass is half full, because of the magnificence B.A.N.K. has brought, or half empty, because it could be so much better. For me it's more than half full: Dry chicken and erratic service can be fixed in ways that the work of bulldozers never can.

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