Can't Go Home

Juvenile's New Orleans, the ghost town America made

In his own bit of street theater, the Big Chief acts out a confrontation with a man in skull makeup, mocking Death to his face: "I'll make the sun come out in the middle of a hurricane."

That afternoon, as we drive north out of New Orleans through a landscape of trees without branches, WWOZ-FM (90.7) broadcasts the street party from the Tréme. Amid clattering drums, a deep male voice leads the crowd in song: "Calling all my people/Come back home/New Orleans/Where you belong."

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