Most of the Enchilada

New D'Amico Mexican Restaurant Masa Is Casual and Likable, and Mixes a Damn Good Margarita. Isn't That Good Enough?

After nine years of reviewing restaurants nigh weekly, I took a long holiday this past winter, and, for nearly two months, dined in. During this time I received news about restaurants the way most people do: by the vague cultural osmosis that consists of glancing at headlines of newspaper articles I didn't read, listening to the opinions of people I don't respect, and, generally, paying no mind. This was interesting in several ways: One, I feel like I

understand the American electoral process much, much more deeply; two, I emerged with the absolutely wrong idea about Masa, the new big-splash D'Amico restaurant in downtown Minneapolis.

I thought it was an expensive expense-account palace, the sort of place that's just soaking with high design and bubbling with food that's ambitious, culinarily sophisticated, regionally exact, and possible only with rare and exotic ingredients. If you think this, too, please know that loosey-goosey cultural osmosis is doing us all no good.

For I write to you now having put Masa through the full reviewer's set of hoops and tortures and can report to you the real deal: It's just a basic Mexican restaurant. Just that! Just a basic, likable, everyday pan-Mexican restaurant in a big tiled room, a place with $2.50 tacos at lunch, good pozole and not-good-enough chicken mole at dinner, and, all the time, good guacamole and great margaritas. It's a little more expensive than the old-school neighborhood Mexican restaurants you're used to—$7.50 for guacamole—but not by much. Mostly, it's just like your old neighborhood favorite Mexican joints, except it's more contemporary and stylish.

Style-wise, Masa's got big window-walls; a distant, whitish ceiling; pale chairs; and accents of light glass tile, all of which make it feel hygienic and built for crowds. I spent a fair amount of time one night arguing with myself over whether Masa felt more like the poolside area of a nice resort or more like a museum cafeteria. Finally I decided it was an argument neither side could win, so I took my half of the frequent-flyer miles and called it settled.

In any event, Masa has the best chips and salsa in town. The chips are thick and good, and served in a nice china bowl, not in a lowly basket, and you get three salsas served in pretty little white bowls lined up on a white serving tray: one hot and smoky; another sweet, a little spicy and bright green with raw tomatillos; and the third mild. The appetizers are pretty basic stuff: The Mexican-style shrimp cocktail ($9) is chopped-up shrimp and avocado served in the traditional way, marinated in a tomato sauce perked up with cilantro, onions, garlic, and sliced canned olives. It tastes fine, all perky and fresh, just crying out for a beer—of which Masa has almost a dozen, including Dos Equis lager on tap ($5) served in a very pretty, straight-sided, thin glass.

Sea bass ceviche is made with fresh fish and lots of lime. The guacamole is just-made and very bland, just an avocado mashed with a bit of onion, chopped tomato, cilantro, a few thin strips of serrano chile, and lime juice. It's served with chips, slices of radish, and chunks of cauliflower, and feels very healthy, as if you're eating in a raw-foods restaurant. The corn and shrimp chowder ($8.50) is a sugary bowl of golden pureed corn given texture with a handful of chopped shrimp pieces. Fairly forgettable stuff, but not unlikable.

Masa's strong suit tends to be the humble dishes: At lunch tacos, at dinner sopes, at either pozole verde. The tacos at lunch are marvelous, made in the classic Mexican style with a pair of small, thick corn tortillas graced with a topping and a sprinkling of fresh chopped cilantro and finely diced white onion, and a section of lime on the side. They cost only $2.50 each, and four of them make a good lunch. I tried all on offer, and particularly liked the al pastor, which has a nice, sweet, smoky spice to it, with rectangles of fresh grilled pineapple adding bright happiness to the pork. The fish tacos, made with snapper, featuring chunks of white fish cooked with a gentle dusting of spice and combined with a fresh salsa to serve, were light and good. If you don't have the time to make it to one of our super-authentic taco spots, like the food court at Mercado Central, the Masa tacos are a good substitute.

At dinner the sopes appetizer ($8.50) is similar. Here, instead of tacos you get the thicker, plumper, cornmeal pancakes known as sopes, but they're topped with the same kind of good, spicy, humble toppings that have made Mexican tacos so popular. When I had them, they featured a slightly sweet shredded chicken in a pale, creamy chipotle sauce, spicy and gamy chorizo and potato, and roasted, thinly sliced green poblano chiles and onion. Grilled green onions, known as cebollitas, made with lots of lime juice and a bit of cayenne ($3) are another humble hit: They're sharp, simple, sweet, and delicious.

Pozole verde was the final dish I really enjoyed at Masa; here the classic soup of rib-sticking, chewy kernels of hominy corn is made with a bright green stock full of pureed oregano. The bowl was brimming with pork and chicken; beside the bowl sat four little dishes holding fresh chopped onions, cilantro, radishes, and more oregano, so you could enliven and season your meal as you went. It was altogether light, plain, fresh, and nice. (I know a lot of you are going to go beserk when you hear the price, $13.25 at dinner or $10.75 at lunch, but you know, we live in an age of $12 burgers and $16 meatloaf plates. Also an age of deficit spending, so maybe it's not our fault.)

1
 
2
 
All
 
Next Page »
 
My Voice Nation Help
0 comments
 
Loading...