Countless Crispy Critters
Dear Dara confronts the French-fry issue
The St. Paul Grill's fries come with a silvery gravy boat of Choron sauce, which tastes like a béarnaise with a shot of ketchup blended in, and has the effect of making the fries seem even weightier and more significant. These fries are the edible landmark inside the architectural landmark. THE ST. PAUL GRILL, 350 Market St., St. Paul; 651.224.7455;www.stpaulgrill.com
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The Wienery
414 Cedar Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55454
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)
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Jp American Bistro
2937 Lyndale Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55408
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Uptown/ Eat Street
112 Eatery
112 N. 3rd St.
Minneapolis, MN 55401
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)
The Craftsman Restaurant
4300 E. Lake St.
Minneapolis, MN 55406
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Seward/ Longfellow/ Minnehaha
Ike's Food & Cocktails
50 S. Sixth St.
Minneapolis, MN 55402
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)
Black Forest Inn
1 E. 26th St.
Minneapolis, MN 55404
Category: Restaurant > German
Region: Uptown/ Eat Street
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Café Lurcat, Bar Lurcat
Did you know that the kitchen for the bar at Lurcat closes at 10:00 p.m. these days? What about when people need some of the best French fries in the state at 10:08? Poor, poor people. Still, the second time I went to Lurcat for their award-winning fries, I was terrifically impressed. Out came the signature silvery bucket, paper-lined, decorated with delicate heart-shaped handles, and inside a pale, pouffy bouquet of the lightest rendition of fried spud you will find in the metro.
While the other two grand champions of potato descend from a tradition of scrubbed tuber, unadulterated, the Lurcat fry is more of a Jackie O, Camelot, and drive-in Americana creation: It is skinless, pale, and light as the air in a soufflé. The Lurcat fries come with little twin ramekins of things to dip them in: One is plain old ketchup; the other rich béarnaise sauce made with plenty of licorice-tasting fresh tarragon. The sweet sauces have the counterintuitive effect of making the fries seem even sweeter, lighter, and ethereal.
The Lurcat fries, which cost $6.50, are easily the most elegant in town, and if you order some you can recline on a white couch beneath crystal chandeliers which sparkle beneath azure ceilings, and you can swirl wine in tall, elegant stemware, and consider how rich and frequent the opportunities are these days to lead a life operatic. CAFÉ LURCAT, BAR LURCAT; 1624 Harmon Place, Minneapolis; 612.486.5500;www.cafelurcat.com
The French-Fry Connoisseur's Long List
Visit them all and terrify your friends with the obsessive completeness of your Twin Cities French-fry knowledge. Did I forget your favorite? Then write in, and we might be able to expand the French-Fry Issue into a full-blown complex.
THE WIENERY, 414 Cedar Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612.333.5796
JP AMERICAN BISTRO, 2937 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612.824.9300; www.jpamericanbistro.com
112 EATERY, 112 N. Third St., Minneapolis; 612.343.7696; www.112eatery.com
THE CRAFTSMAN RESTAURANT, 4300 E. Lake St., Minneapolis; 612.722.0175; www.craftsmanrestaurant.com
IKE'S FOOD & COCKTAILS, 50 S. Sixth St., Minneapolis; 612.746.4537; www.ilikeikes.com
ANDY'S GARAGE, 1825 University Ave. W., St. Paul; 651.917.2332
HAMLIN'S COFFEE SHOP, 512 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis; 612.333.3876; www.hamlinscafe.com
THE BLACK FOREST INN, 1 E. 26th St., Minneapolis; 612.872.0812; www.blackforestinnmpls.com
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