Countless Crispy Critters

Dear Dara confronts the French-fry issue

The St. Paul Grill's fries come with a silvery gravy boat of Choron sauce, which tastes like a béarnaise with a shot of ketchup blended in, and has the effect of making the fries seem even weightier and more significant. These fries are the edible landmark inside the architectural landmark. THE ST. PAUL GRILL, 350 Market St., St. Paul; 651.224.7455;


Café Lurcat, Bar Lurcat

The fries at jP look like a bouquet of tuber, as envisioned by the Italian futurist sculptor Brancusi
Bill Kelley
The fries at jP look like a bouquet of tuber, as envisioned by the Italian futurist sculptor Brancusi

Location Info


The Wienery

414 Cedar Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55454

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

Jp American Bistro

2937 Lyndale Ave.
Minneapolis, MN 55408

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Uptown/ Eat Street

112 Eatery

112 N. 3rd St.
Minneapolis, MN 55401

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

The Craftsman Restaurant

4300 E. Lake St.
Minneapolis, MN 55406

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Seward/ Longfellow/ Minnehaha

Ike's Food & Cocktails

50 S. Sixth St.
Minneapolis, MN 55402

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Minneapolis (Downtown)

Black Forest Inn

1 E. 26th St.
Minneapolis, MN 55404

Category: Restaurant > German

Region: Uptown/ Eat Street

Did you know that the kitchen for the bar at Lurcat closes at 10:00 p.m. these days? What about when people need some of the best French fries in the state at 10:08? Poor, poor people. Still, the second time I went to Lurcat for their award-winning fries, I was terrifically impressed. Out came the signature silvery bucket, paper-lined, decorated with delicate heart-shaped handles, and inside a pale, pouffy bouquet of the lightest rendition of fried spud you will find in the metro.

While the other two grand champions of potato descend from a tradition of scrubbed tuber, unadulterated, the Lurcat fry is more of a Jackie O, Camelot, and drive-in Americana creation: It is skinless, pale, and light as the air in a soufflé. The Lurcat fries come with little twin ramekins of things to dip them in: One is plain old ketchup; the other rich béarnaise sauce made with plenty of licorice-tasting fresh tarragon. The sweet sauces have the counterintuitive effect of making the fries seem even sweeter, lighter, and ethereal.

The Lurcat fries, which cost $6.50, are easily the most elegant in town, and if you order some you can recline on a white couch beneath crystal chandeliers which sparkle beneath azure ceilings, and you can swirl wine in tall, elegant stemware, and consider how rich and frequent the opportunities are these days to lead a life operatic. CAFÉ LURCAT, BAR LURCAT; 1624 Harmon Place, Minneapolis; 612.486.5500;


The French-Fry Connoisseur's Long List

Visit them all and terrify your friends with the obsessive completeness of your Twin Cities French-fry knowledge. Did I forget your favorite? Then write in, and we might be able to expand the French-Fry Issue into a full-blown complex.

THE WIENERY, 414 Cedar Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612.333.5796

JP AMERICAN BISTRO, 2937 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis; 612.824.9300;

112 EATERY, 112 N. Third St., Minneapolis; 612.343.7696;

THE CRAFTSMAN RESTAURANT, 4300 E. Lake St., Minneapolis; 612.722.0175;

IKE'S FOOD & COCKTAILS, 50 S. Sixth St., Minneapolis; 612.746.4537;

ANDY'S GARAGE, 1825 University Ave. W., St. Paul; 651.917.2332

HAMLIN'S COFFEE SHOP, 512 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis; 612.333.3876;

THE BLACK FOREST INN, 1 E. 26th St., Minneapolis; 612.872.0812;

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